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Description
Ice Warmed By Sun by =TimberClipse
So this shot is quite interesting. It was taken early on January 19 after an ice and snow storm hit NY. However, it was taken before the sun had risen and with very little light. The only light available to me was that of a small LED Flashlight. I stuck it in the snow and pointed it at the ice. What resulted was this beautifully lit piece that was otherwise in complete darkness.
Specs
1/19/11
Nikon D5000 - 70-300mm Lens
1/20 Shutter Speed
9.5 F-Number
300mm Focal Length
1000 ISO
As Promised, more art
Image size
4288x2848px 7.29 MB
Make
NIKON CORPORATION
Model
NIKON D5000
Shutter Speed
1/20 second
Aperture
F/9.5
Focal Length
300 mm
ISO Speed
1000
Date Taken
Jan 19, 2011, 6:52:43 AM
Comments31
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Overall
Vision
Originality
Technique
Impact
Hello,
First of all let me say that the shot is quite nice as far as the subject and the framing go - respecting the rule of thirds in the frame with the aid of out of focus areas helps with the impact and makes it easier for the eye to spot a drop to focus on, allowing therefore to catch more of the detail. Good eye on seeing this.
At this point however a few technical mistakes begin to appear - firstly your DOF with a 300mm on a D5000 with a 9.5 is about 6mm if the shot was taken from the minimal focal distance of the lense (which seems so); while this does help the viewer (a I said before) in conjunction with the microshake derivign from the low speed, which after all is normal, VR or not, at 1/20 with a 300.
This on it's own woild be enough to confuse the eye a bit, yet once it looks closer it can notice hueg ammounts of chromatic abberration coming from the light prisming in the water droplets and then diffracting on the lense, thus adding a bit to the messiness above described.
In conclusion, while the shot is well framed and the focus is correct for this shot, once take in conjunction with the microshakes and the chromatic abberration it looses a lot in terms of technique, which translate into an obvious loss of impact.
I would suggest the use of a shorter focal lenght, say a 50 or 60some mm lense (which would still be above 75mm on your camera) for macro shots, maybe even with the use of a close up filter, which would allow you for a much more precises control of the DOF and a much reduced microshakign just because of the shorter focal lenght and the lighter lense.
Hope you find this helpful,
Nicola.